A couple of the screw heads sheard off when I was attempting to remove them, any was you can think off so I could remove them?

Unfortunately, no. Best bet would be to counter sink the broken screw and put another screw next to the broken one so it is somewhat hidden. You might find this to happen over and over again as the screws are rusted. You may end up replacing boards.

Ouch as the admin has suggested. I would use a wood filler to cover over the headless screws. I had the same issue with me front door when i took it off and the screws sheared. I had to move the hinges in the end!

DeckRestAdmin wrote:
Unfortunately, no. Best bet would be to counter sink the broken screw and put another screw next to the broken one so it is somewhat hidden. You might find this to happen over and over again as the screws are rusted. You may end up replacing boards.

Bingo!

Beth

You know as true as this is. I can imagine it happens more than people would really like to admit. It makes sense to do it this way. I would do as advised.

It is my own opinion but I would not recommend wood filler to fill nail/screw holes on a deck that is to be sealed with a transparent deck sealer. If you could line up a screw on a slight angle in the same hole as the one that broke and still hit the joist, that would be better. If you were to ever use a filler on a deck, the one that works great is the minwax high performance wood filler. The thing is that if you use a sealer on the deck, the filler shows like poca-dots, we had one customer who filled all the holes on his deck so we bought a solid color stain and dabbed the spots with a cedar color solid stain on q-tips before applying the sealer. If your using a solid color deck stain on the whole deck, using a filler is fine.

I would never suggest filling holes like that. It will look like what it is....

I agree, wood filler just does not look good with a transparent stain. It also will break down and come out eventually. If the board is that bad just replace it.